![]() ![]() Connect the voltage sense wire to the main fuse panel and bingo 14.6 charging voItage. A very small amount needs to removed from the mount and the pulley spacer needs to be changed. For those with a Subaru conversion pick up a used 130amp Tribeca alternator. It does not have time delays built in where as the CT does have time delays but is set to a lower voltage. The Victron Li-CT is intended to be used with a BMS. If you have a small setup (sub 100AH) i think one of these Lithium specific Cyrix-Li-ct combiners is just the ticket and you better be sure you have the upgraded alternator to starter wiring harness ata minimum. If you have a large lithium battery 100+AH I strongly recommend that you use a DC to DC, otherwise I just don't think our alternators can take that kind of sustained load. There are other more complicated ways to do it as well. A battery to battery charger will do this. You need something to limit the amp delivery to your lithium battery. Lithium will also suck all the amps your alternator can put out and will damage your alternator. I think the alternator does not put out high enough voltage for lithium batteries. So only connects when alternator is charging.īut yes, I think you are better off with a battery to battery charger. I still have an AGM and use a relay connected to the fridge relay blue wire. Got good phone support from company as well. I used this Sterling DC to DC charger for my lithium setup. Consider using a DC to DC management device (Redarc, Sterling, etc.). TLDR: Installing a LiFePO4 house battery made me realize I was wasting time and money overbuilding my house battery system. This system assumes the conventional alternator-based start battery charging circuit is functioning properly. This device takes inputs from the alternator or solar, manages them, and charges the lithium battery. The use of the ACR became even more irrelevant when I built the house battery system around the Redarc Dual Input 40A battery charger. When I upgraded to my Lithium house battery, it made me question why I was using a Blue Sea 7622 ACR to combine batteries. I see no reason why it would not work on a Bluesea ACR. Diagram below (just look at the relay controlling the ground of the Victron LI-CT - which is a Victron ACR).įor years people have added a small resistor to the ground connection of Sure power ACRs to raise the somewhat low values. That means the ACR is only on/used when the ignition/engine is running. I'd recommend installing a relay to control the ground of the ACR. ![]() Otherwise, my house battery renew project just got more expensive yet! There is an option for a manual override on the ACR, which I may institute.Īlternatively, I wonder if I could install circuitry to alter the voltage of the house battery sensed by the ACR. So, after engine shut down, the batteries stay connected for an extended period (hr+) during which time, the lithium battery dumps current to the starting battery until it finally reaches a low enough voltage that the ACR disconnects them. The disconnect voltage on the older ACR is adjustable, but not high enough for the resting voltage for the Lithium battery (13.3V +/-) I recently installed a lithium house battery, now have an issue. ![]() I have a Blue Sea Cl-series battery link ACR 7600 (now discontinued). Thought I would pass along some detail on an issue that changing to A lithium battery for the house has caused. View original topic: Blue sea Cl-series ACR and lithum house battery issue
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